Cox: Jack and Tony’s Restaurant and Whisky Bar

Friday, January 11, 2013

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JACK AND TONY’S RESTAURANT AND WHISKY BAR
Where: 115 Fourth St. in Railroad Square, Santa Rosa
When: Lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. and dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays. Closed Sundays
Reservations: Call 526-4347
Price range: Expensive to very expensive, with entrees from $19 to $29
Website: jackandtonys.com

Whisky list: ****
Ambiance: **½
Service: ***
Food: **½
Overall: ***

**** Extraordinary
*** Very good
** Good
* Not very good
0 Terrible

Bacon wrapped scallops from Jack and Tony’s Restaurant and Whisky Bar in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

To cut right to the chase, Jack and Tony’s Restaurant and Whisky Bar in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square District is a whimsically named place where Jack Mitchell is the chef and “Tony” is Jack’s doppelganger in a pin-striped suit who runs the whiskey bar.

Tony’s is a better whiskey bar than Jack’s is a restaurant, so let’s examine the bar scene first. If you are in a mood to mingle, scads of people are usually decompressing after a stressful workday with a shot of something tasty and even exotic; the whiskey menu offers over 300 choices. It’s whiskey if you are drinking American or Irish products, but whisky, spelled without the “e,” if you’re drinking Scotch, Canadian or Japanese spirits.

GALLERY:  Jack and Tony’s Restaurant and Whisky Bar

The bartender is helpful and will guide you in the delicate art of adding water to your whiskey. A smattering of water opens up the spirit, reducing its alcoholic brutality and smoothing it as it enhances its nose and flavor. With bourbon, the water is properly called “branch,” the Kentucky patois for creek.

How much water to add? That’s something each imbiber must decide for him or herself. If you are new to whiskey, ask the bartender to recommend an amount, then increase or decrease it in future drinks until it suits your taste. Be aware, however, that “cask strength” Scotch is almost always undiluted and absolutely requires water to make it palatable.

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Last modified: January 9, 2013
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