Cox: Formosa Bistro

Ama Ebi

Unlike most nigiri sushi, the Koni ($4.95 ***), or snow crab, was not simply placed on a lump of sushi rice, but two pieces of rice topped with shredded crabmeat were encircled by strips of nori seaweed to keep the crab from falling apart. Two pieces of Ama Ebi ($7.50 ***) were more typical, with raw sweet prawns set upon sushi rice. These were accompanied by the prawns’ heads, dipped in a breadcrumb batter and deep fried, making quite a display. None of the folks at our table were quite sure how to eat the shrimp heads, but sucking the crusty batter out of them seemed to be the right idea.

Hamachi Sashimi

For more raw seafood, we ordered the Hamachi Sashimi ($10.95 for 4 pcs. ***½), which was perfectly fresh, sweet, yellowtail filet. Several pieces came with a lump of wasabi that, when mixed with soy sauce in a small ceramic dish, incomprehensibly failed to have the nose-stinging effect usually associated with wasabi. It was our party’s first experience with bland wasabi.

Chicken Curry

The hit of the night was a tasty Chicken Curry ($10.95 ***½), as good as you’d get at any Thai restaurant. Tender pieces of chicken, carrots, potatoes and green beans swam in a coconut curry sauce. Order steamed rice for $2.25 a serving (or brown rice for $2.95) and pour this curry over it. It’s all you need for a full-belly meal for less than $15 per person.

Like many Asian restaurants, the menu is vast. Besides the 16 kinds of nigiri sushi, it offers 12 kinds of maki sushi (rolled), 12 types of temaki (hand rolls), and 28 kinds of “chef’s special rolls,” including music themes like “Dark Side of the Moon,” and “Sir Paul” rolls; sexy themes likes “Love Goddess,” “Lady Killer” and “Victoria’s Secret;” and many more, all of which are variations on fish, cucumber, avocado, greens, nuts and tobiko.