Cox: Taverna Sofia

Friday, November 30, 2012

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TAVERNA SOFIA
Where: 244 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg
When: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Thursdays through Tuesdays. Closed Wednesdays
Reservations and take-out: Call 431-1982
Price range: Moderate, with entrees from $14 to $17
Website: www.tavernasofia.com

Wine list: **
Ambiance: **½
Service:
Food: ***½
Overall: ***

**** Extraordinary
*** Very good
** Good
* Not very good
0 Terrible

Greek salad

And here’s where I have a quibble. The menu offers Greek Salad ($9 ***) and describes it as tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions, kalamata olives, feta cheese and vinaigrette. Yes, that’s a real Greek salad, but when it arrives, it also contains lettuce, which doesn’t belong in a real Greek salad. I asked about the lettuce and was told that her American customers kept asking, “Where’s the lettuce?” So Sofia added some to keep her customers happy. The salad is wonderfully fresh and delicious, even with the lettuce.

The wine list contains a dozen bottles. Have fun and try one of the Greek wines. The white wine from the island of Santorini for $36 is especially crisp and food-friendly. The best part of the service is when Sofia stops by your table to see how you like the food.

While seafood is a big part of the diet in Greece, the restaurant so far is sticking with lamb, beef, pork and chicken. In the kitchen is the vertical revolving cylinder of lamb and beef from which meat is shaved and stuffed into warm pita along with tomatoes, onions and tzatziki, a sandwich that the Greeks call Gyro ($14 ***½), pronounced hee-row, and that’s worth every penny.

Baklava

Moussaka ($14 ****) is not to be missed. Eggplant is grilled and layered in a baking dish with spiced ground beef, peppers, onions, tomatoes, béchamel sauce and kefalograviera, a tangy, salty Greek sheep’s-milk cheese. For dessert, of course there’s good house-made Baklava ($5 ***) that’s sweetened with restraint.

To sum up: You’ll hardly be able to wait to get back for more of this delectable Greek food.

Jeff Cox writes a weekly restaurant review column for the Sonoma Living section. You can reach him at jeffcox@sonic.net.

 

TAVERNA SOFIA
Where: 244 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg
When: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Thursdays through Tuesdays. Closed Wednesdays
Reservations and take-out: Call 431-1982
Price range: Moderate, with entrees from $14 to $17
Website: www.tavernasofia.com

Wine list: **
Ambiance: **½
Service:
Food: ***½
Overall: ***

**** Extraordinary
*** Very good
** Good
* Not very good
0 Terrible

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Last modified: November 28, 2012
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