Review: Glen Ellen Star

Striped Bass (Jeff Kan Lee/PD)

Among entrees, the Brick Chicken ($21 ***) was a delicious example of a breast and wing joint pressed onto a hot griddle, but nowhere near the thyme-infused, fiery fantasy of its Italian cousin, pollo schiacciata. Still, an excellent plate. Striped Bass ($22 ***½), served crispy-fish-skin-side up, was perfectly cooked flaky white fish, paired with charred spring onions, and given a helping of romesco sauce (a paste of roasted red peppers, almonds, olive oil, and vinegar that Spaniards slather on their fresh fish).

Desserts are half pints of house-made ice creams, and they’re all good.

To sum up: The chef is an artist and consummate cook. Go and enjoy his work.

Jeff Cox writes a weekly restaurant review column for the Sonoma Living section. You can reach him at jeffcox@sonic.net.

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GLEN ELLEN STAR
Where: 13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen
When: Dinner Sundays through Thursdays from 5:30 to 9 p.m., and to 9:30 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Closed Mondays
Reservations: A must. Call 343-1384
Price range: Moderate to expensive, with appetizers mostly under $10 and entrees from $18 to $23
Website: www.glenellenstar.com

Wine list: **½
Ambiance: **
Service: **½
Food: ***½
Overall: ***

**** Extraordinary
*** Very good
** Good
* Not very good
0 Terrible