Family experience at Catelli’s

Beef meatball sliders at Catelli's in Geyserville. (photo by Jeff Kan Lee/PD)

The Olive Garden chain of Italian-style restaurants claims that, “When you’re here, you’re family.” But if you really want a family experience, try Catelli’s in Geyserville.

Catelli’s has a long history in that town. Santi and Virginia Catelli opened the restaurant in 1936, hanging a sign outside that said Rex. (Santi bought it from a local signmaker who made it to order for a customer who failed to pick it up.) Patrons called the place, “The Rex,” and eventually, “Catelli’s ‘The Rex.’” In 1999, then-owner Susan Hampton moved the restaurant to Healdsburg. The Geyserville building became home to the upscale Santi, which moved to Santa Rosa in 2010. Domenica and Nick Catelli, Santi and Virginia’s grandchildren, then re-opened the restaurant in its familiar old spot, simplifying the name to Catelli’s.

PHOTO GALLERY: Catelli’s

This outcome has obviously delighted many people. On a recent night, just about everyone who walked in the door was greeted by name and with a smile by Nick Catelli, who runs the front of the house. Domenica is the chef. She’s cooking the straightforward Italian-American classics that made the old Catelli’s so beloved, and creating these dishes from scratch with local and organic ingredients. She’s a national spokesperson for the Organic Trade Association and has appeared on national TV demonstrating healthy cooking, especially for pregnant and new mothers. She’s put her knowledge into a book called “Mom-a-licious” and the restaurant’s bar even serves a Mom-a-licious Martini made with organic vodka, elderflower liqueur, basil and blood-orange juice.

Domenica is also a recurring judge on “Iron Chef America,” and publicity piled up when Stefani Joanne Angelina Germanotta stopped by for some Italian home cooking. You may know her as Lady Gaga.

The brother-sister team is re-doing the outside patio and back dining room and they’ll be ready for warm summer weather. No matter what the outside temperature, though, the vibe in Catelli’s is warm, friendly and genuine. And so are the unpretentious and delicious dishes Domenica puts together.